The Pear:
Questions to ask your customer: Do you…?
- Carry weight on your hips or thighs?
- Have narrower shoulders than hips?
- Have a clearly defined waist?
- Wear a larger size on your bottom half than your top?
General rules for creating visual balance:
- Your jackets and tops need to finish either above or below the widest point of your hips and bottom
- Balance the top with your fuller bottom half. Layering on your top half creates visual interest and draws the eye upwards. Wear volume, clutter, pattern, colour on your top half, so hips and thighs will seem narrower
- Wear fitted styles around your waist and always accentuate your waistline e.g. empire line, wraps, fitted lines
- Make your shoulders look broader with e.g. shoulder pads, puffed sleeves, cap sleeve t-shirts, boleros
Things to look for:
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Neckline |
Wider collar and lapels, in general you are quite flexible here if you don't have a big bust or a short/wide neck. Great necklines are boat and bardot. |
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Sleeve |
Cap, ¾ length, dropped, batman, puffed, wrist or above wrist are great for you. If you are small to medium busted, puffed and short sleeves will work as well. |
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Tops & Shirts |
Fitted shapes are a must e.g. wrap tops or empire lines; vests, waistcoats and stiff fabrics, straight yoke, breast pockets, big collars are great; whether patterned or horizontally striped; all shoulder enhancing shapes e.g. shoulder pads, big shawls, bolero, wide straps, boat neck. |
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Jackets |
Details, collars, pockets, single or double breasted, shoulder pads are excellent, but only on fitted shapes. Hoods, breast pockets, back yokes and back belts in the waist area look great. |
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Coats |
Trench coats are fabulous; watch out for shoulder enhancing details, big lapels, wide collars, double breasted styles (great with empire shaped coats); fuss on top but simple from the waist down; choose fitted shapes e.g. belted coats. |
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Dresses |
Choose empire or wrap dresses; separates work better. |
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Skirts |
Straight tapered knee length or between the knee and mid calf; bias or skirts with flip are most flattering. |
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Trousers |
Plain, flat-fronted, bootleg or flared (for long legs), full leg line or ankle length are best, simple style e.g. no belt loops, creases, pleats, pockets, pattern, turn ups. |
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Jeans |
Dark bootcut denim is best. |
Things to avoid:
- Narrowing leg, pleats or creases in your leg line, pinstripe suits, turn-ups in your trousers, wide or flared leg lines. Also avoid combat or cropped trousers or culottes
- Details, patterns, pockets on your thigh and hip area and belts on your hips
- Flared or ruffled sleeve lines, straight skirts or pencil skirts
- Mini skirts or any other hemline (including single or double vents in jackets) that finishes on your hips, thighs or any other full point of your leg
- Dropped waistlines or dropped panels
- Sloping or narrow shoulder lines
If you have gained or lost weight many times your body shape changes into another one.
- You lean towards a full hourglass shape if your top half looks heavier because of a large bust
- You can lean towards an apple if your weight gain generally goes onto your bust and tummy areas
Neat Hour Glass:
Questions to ask your customer: Do you…?
- Wear the same size top and bottom?
- Have a clearly defined waist?
- Have clearly defined bust?
- Have a curved bottom?
General rules to create visual balance:
- Follow your body line - that defines your waist, enhances your bust and highlights your hips and bottom
- This is the classic feminine shape and is most flexible when it comes to wearing different styles and shapes in clothing
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Neckline |
Very flexible - as long as you don't have a short or wide neck. |
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Sleeves |
The choice is yours - they will all work for you. |
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Tops & shirts |
Your choice is versatile as long as you opt for fitted styles. Wraps, waistcoats, layering and crossovers will highlight your shape and waist. |
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Jackets |
Fitted shapes with waist definition - again the choice is yours e.g. shoulder pads, single or double breasted, belted or empire line, lapels, breast or hip pockets. |
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Coats |
All shapes as long as they have some shape at the waist or a belt. |
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Dresses |
Any style either shaped or belted, short or long will work. |
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Skirts |
Again you can be very flexible in your choices. You can wear straight, A-line, pencil skirt, panelled, flip, dropped waistline, bias cut, pleats, waistbands, full skirts etc. as long as they have waist definition. |
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Trousers |
Any type will work for you whether long or short; wide or narrow; pockets or none; pleats or plain front; with or without turn ups etc. |
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Jeans |
Any style. Just be aware when choosing a waistband. |
Things to avoid: Any styles and shapes that hide your body shape. They will add extra volume to your waist
If you have gained or lost weight many times your body shape can change into another one:
- Extra weight around your hips can make you lean towards a pear shape
- Extra weight around your waist can make you lean towards an apple
- A fuller bust, hip and tummy can make you lean towards a full hourglass
The Full Hourglass:
Questions to ask your customer: Do you…?
- Feel most comfortable in more fitted styles?
- Find that a straight skirt rises up?
- Find that waistbands are often too large?
- Wear a slightly larger size on top to accommodate your bust?
General rules to create visual balance:
- Wear a good supporting bra that will lift our bust and give you a more defined waist
- Bring attention to your shoulder and neckline, wear designs that bring the eye to the centre by wearing wider and lower necklines
- Extend the shoulder past the thickest part of the arms
Things to look for:
|
Neckline |
Opt for lower and wider necklines like scoop, square or sweetheart. Keep attention around your bust and décolletage line e.g. use embellishments, colour, pattern. A high yoke which gathers or draped bodice is excellent camouflage for a heavy busted person. |
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Sleeves |
Cap, ¾ sleeves, above wrist, wrist length, shaped. |
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Tops & shirts |
Shoulder pads are good to allow the sleeves to hang unrestricted; cross overs or wraps in soft fabrics; empire lines that go in under your bust, side fastening. |
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Jackets |
Fitted with shawl collar or concealed front opening, single breasted, wide lapels which have to sit above your bust. |
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Coats |
Fitted styles with shawl collar, single breasted. |
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Dresses |
Wrap or bias-cut shift, empire line that goes in under the bust, hemline no shorter than knee length |
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Skirts |
Flip, bias or full skirts that are adjustable at the waist, pencil skirts (best with a split at the back or side. Best hemline is knee length or longer. |
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Trousers |
Flat fronted with side zip, plain, straight or flared/wide legs (best for long legs). |
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Jeans |
Simple and clean styles such as classic bootcut or straight leg are best. A narrowing leg is a tricky option. |
Things to avoid:
- Straight shapes that hide your waist
- Fussy styles and details that create additional volume around your bust, tummy, thighs e.g. dropped sleeve lines, pleats, high-waisted styles, hip pockets
- High necklines that cover up your cleavage and décolleté e.g. turtle neck
- Boxy jackets, or double breasted styles, narrowing leg lines or wide/short sleeves which finish near your bust.
If you have gained or lost weight many times your body shape can change into another one.
- A leaner body around your bust, hips and tummy might point you to a neat hourglass shape
- Extra weight around your hips can make you lean towards a pear shape
- Extra weight around your waist can make you lean towards an apple body shape
The Lean Column
Things to ask your customers. Do you…
- Wear the same size on your top and bottom halves?
- Have a minimal bust?
- Have little waist definition?
- Have a flat hips and bottom?
General rules to create visual balance:
- Use layering to shorten your long top half
- Create roundness around your extremities e.g. sleeve, leg line, neckline
- Wear high or low waisted styles - broad shoulders; unfitted jackets, which slope to the waist; highlight your hips and bottom using pockets and pleats
Things to look for:
|
Neckline |
Very flexible in your neckline; great choices are ruffles, cowl, necktie, collars, turtle neck, scoop neck- they will give you roundness and put the focus on the centre of your body |
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Sleeves |
Any form that will give volume to your arms e.g. batman, dropped sleeve line, batman like sleeves, flared, cuffed, ¾ length, loose short sleeves. |
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Tops & shirts |
Tops that add volume, curves and shorten your top half are best e.g. empire line, yoke line, layering, wrap tops, push up bras, breast pockets, padded tops. Details and patterns such as horizontal lines; dotty or floral are great as are scarves and shawls. |
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Jackets |
Waisted jackets or belted jackets with details such as pockets; shoulder details; wide lapels; vent; single or double breasted. Shoulder pads will give extra width and the illusion of a waist. |
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Coats |
Martingale shape, trench coats, single or double breasted with wide lapels, breast and waist pockets. Belted versions are good for giving you a shaped waist and curves. |
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Dresses |
Princess line with curved darts and details, wrap, empire line. |
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Skirts |
The slimmer you are the shorter you can go in your skirt (but keep in mind what is the most appropriate - both for your age and the occasion). Good shapes are a slight A-line, pencil skirt, flip, bias or wrap. |
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Trousers |
Choose from shaped, pleated and pocketed, narrowing or tapered leg line, culottes, capris and shorts. Details such as turn-ups, washes, embellishments, side pockets are ways to add volume and curves. |
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Jeans |
Choose skinny or bootcut leg lines. Avoid straight or wide leg because they will overpower your frame. |
Things to avoid:
- Figure-hugging garments
- Long straight fitted lines in dresses, trousers and sleeves
- Tops, shift dresses with square necklines
- Shapeless jackets; loose or droopy styles that hang from your shoulders
- Dropped waistlines
- Bulky, heavy textures
- Double breasted jackets
If you have gained or lost weight many times your body shape can change into another one.
- You lean towards a pear shape if your hips are slightly broader
- You lean towards an inverted triangle if your shoulders are slightly broader than your hips
- You lean towards a rectangle body shape if you are of a larger bone structure and have a medium bust
The Rectangle:
Questions to ask your customer. Do you…?
- Wear the same size on your top and bottom halves?
- Have a small bust?
- Have a little waist definition?
- Have flat hips and bottom?
General rules to create visual balance: Need to create an illusion of a waist.
- Keep your silhouette uncluttered
- Unstructured jackets that gently shape the waist
- Hip and bottom details are good - as long they create gentle curves
Things to look for:
Neckline |
Opt for lower, wider necklines such as jewels, scoop boat necklines - this looks even better with details such as embellishments around your décolletage. |
Sleeves |
Loose fit, puffed, cap ¾ sleeves, flared, cuffed or rolled up sleeves. |
Tops & shirts |
Simple and clean style lines; add roundness to your necklines or sleeves; empire line, tops that drape under your bust and give the illusion of movement; splits at your waist. |
Jackets |
Structured and shaped with round lapels and/or neckline. |
Coats |
Straight lines with some emphasis on the waist; empire line, uncluttered lines. |
Dresses |
Kaftans with splits at waist, simple straight lines, empire line, shift dresses. |
Skirts |
Crossover, flip, panelled; A-line. |
Trousers |
You are quite flexible, but opt for low-waisted options (if you prefer, mid-waisted is ok) that flow in their leg line e.g. boot cut, flare or wide leg. Choose trousers with hip, thigh or leg details such as pockets, pleats or turn-ups. |
Jeans |
Straight fit from the hip to the knees with a slight flare (boot cut) looks great. Details on your bum e.g. back pockets, embellishments work well. |
Things to avoid:
- Details at the waist such as noticeable waistband; high-waisted trousers; belted jackets and coats at the front
- Straight lines from top to toe e.g. straight jacket worn with straight trousers/with pin stripes/with a pencil skirt
- Boxy jackets or coats as well double breasted coats and jackets; boxy pleats
- Fussy, busy or droopy style in your clothing
- Rectangle shaped bags or clutch bags
- Square toe shoes
If you have gained or lost weight many times your body shape can change into another one.
- You lean towards a pear shape if your hips are slightly broader (saddle bags) than your hips
- You lean towards inverted triangle if your shoulders are slightly broader than your hips
- You lean towards a column if you have a small bust and are petite in your shape and scale
Inverted Triangle:
Questions to ask your customer: Do you…?
- Wear a larger size on your top half than your bottom?
- Have wider shoulders than hips?
- Have a straight ribcage?
- Prefer an uncluttered look on top?
General rules for your body shape and how to create visual balance:
- Keep details, fuss, anything that creates volume to your lower half and keep your top half clean and uncluttered
- Straight clothing lines are a natural extension to your body line
- Create the illusion of a waist with waist details such as a wider belt
Things to look for:
|
Necklines |
Wider collar and lapels, in general you are quite flexible here if you don't have a big bust or a short/wide neck. |
|
Sleeves |
|
|
Tops & shirts |
Simple straight lines, wrap tops, splits on the waist or hips, layering on hips. |
|
Jackets |
Straight lines or flared with fuller hemline, lower pockets, vents in the back. |
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Coats |
Constructed or shaped with angular lines (but go easy on the collar!). Long jackets that are straight or gently tapered towards the hemline, hip pockets and double vents are great.
|
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Dresses |
Simple straight lines, shifts, A-lines are even better, full or tiered skirts, pleats or patterns or other details.
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Skirts |
A-line is great, while straight is ok. Tiered, volume or dropped waistlines work well. Details such as panels, box pleats or vertical lines at the top ending in a full skirt are good. Skirt lengths can be extreme from very short and flared, to long and flowing.
|
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Trousers |
Any style that will accentuate your bottom and leg line such as pockets, embellishment on your back pockets, pattern and print, baggy trousers, turn ups, combat, palazzo, flares, culottes, wide legs. Fullness can be worn with horizontal lines at the hip and hemline to offset and balance the width above.
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|
Jeans |
Boyfriend style, distressed, look, baggy or coloured jeans, details in hip and thigh area e.g. various washes, ripped, embellishments, flared, boot cut, wide leg, turn ups, big back pockets.
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Things to avoid:
- Necklines that make you broader on top e.g. boat or bardot, big straps, halterneck tops, big shawl collars
- Styles that extend or accentuate shoulders e.g. details, volume, fuss on your shoulders such as puff sleeves, shoulder pads
- Styles that hide your silhouette
- Patterns on top, scarves around your neck or shoulders
- Stiff fabrics on top and narrowing hemlines e.g. pencil skirts or skinny jeans
If you have gained or lost weight many times your body shape can change into another one.
- You lean toward an apple shape if you have a bust and weight around your top half
- You lean toward a rectangle shape if you have weight or strong bone structure at your hips
The Apple:
Questions to ask your customer: Do you…?
- Have rounded shoulders?
- Have fullness in the tummy area?
- Have ok/good shaped legs?
- Feel uncomfortable when tops are tucked in?
General rules to create visual balance:
- Keep the clothing line straight to slightly fitted, but fabric soft so you avoid unnecessary bulk around the bosom, waist and tummy
- Keep details above the bust line and below the hip line - for everything in between keep it plain and simple
- The shoulders need attention so you should balance them from the front and side views
- Keep your silhouette fitted under bust and as well below your arms and along your waist
- Splits at waist work wonders
Things to look for:
Neckline |
Choose lower and wider necklines like scoop, square, large V-neck or sweetheart. |
Sleeves |
Cap (avoid these if you have big arms except in the most informal of settings), ¾ length, above the wrist, built in shoulder pads (which ensure that your clothes will hang from the shoulders), wrist length, flared or draped. |
Tops & Shirts |
A well fitted bra is a must, simple lines, avoid details and fuss, empire line or styles that go in under your bust, open front, opt for zips at the side or back. |
Jackets |
Single button - ideally placed under your bust and above your tummy, simple empire line or straight line that hangs from your shoulders, should have a deep neckline or be worn open, shoulder pads. |
Coats |
A-line, cardigan style, worn open, big lapels (that sit on your décolleté and not bust line), shoulder pads, vents in the back. |
Dresses |
A-line, wear dress designs which take attention away from the tummy. |
Skirts |
Flip, A-line, panelled or box pleats but they need to start at a point below your tummy, side fastening and flat fronted. |
Trousers |
Flat fronted, wide leg, fastened on the side and should not cling to the body. |
Jeans |
Simple denim styles in classic boot cut, wide leg or flares are best. Stick to clean lines without any extras. Darker colours in jeans are best. |
Thing
Things to avoid:
- Wearing belts whether big or small
- Sleeves which finish next to your bust
- Any details, fuss and volume near bust, tummy or hip area e.g. no lapels, double breasted coats or jackets, high-waisted trousers or waistbands
- Skirt above knee length
- Clothing that finishes at your fullest points e.g. jackets, cardigans
- Excessive fabric in the mid section
- Gathered or tiered skirts
If you have gained or lost weight many times your body shape can change into another one. You lean towards a pear shape if your hips are slightly broader (saddle bags) then
- You lean towards an inverted triangle if your shoulders are slightly broader than our hips
- You lean towards a full hourglass if you lose weight around your tummy and gain a waist instead
